Loewe创意总监为英国泰特美术馆的艺术装置设计服装
Loewe designs costumes for Anthea Hamilton's Tate Britain installation

由专筑网李韧，HYC编译

奢侈品牌Loewe创意总监Jonathan Anderson为Anthea Hamilton的艺术装置设计了特殊的服饰，设计过程中结合了南瓜理念，这座装置位于英国伦敦泰特美术馆。

该装置名叫“The Squash”，其设计时间长达6个月，是英国泰特美术馆委员会每年的保留项目，通常会邀请英国当代艺术家来为美术馆的杜维恩馆设计艺术作品。

Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson looked to the different varieties of squash and pumpkins when designing the costumes for Anthea Hamilton's immersive installation at London's Tate Britain.
Called The Squash, the six-month-long installation has been created by Hamilton for the annual Tate Britain Commission, which invites contemporary British artists to come up with an artwork in response to the building's Duveen Galleries.

The Squash装置的背景由7000多块白色瓷砖组成。

在展出的每一天中，都会有一个身着彩色服饰的模特位于其中，这种服装的设计灵感来源于南瓜的各种色彩与形态。

The Squash takes the form of an ongoing performance set against a backdrop made from over 7,000 white floor tiles.
Each day, the show focuses on a single character, who is dressed in one of seven colourful costumes inspired by the colours and shapes of varieties of squash or pumpkin.

该系列服装一共7种，由Hamilton与奢侈品牌Loewe的创意总监Jonathan Anderson合作设计，它们有着宽大的衣袖、大胆的设计图案，以及南瓜般的帽子。

设计师通过手工绘制的皮革和印花丝绸让衣服具有特殊的肌理，同时也结合了一些70年代的服装轮廓形态。

These seven costumes were designed by Hamilton in collaboration with Loewe creative director, Jonathan Anderson, and feature voluminous sleeves, bold patterns and squash-shaped headwear.
Materials such as hand-painted leather and printed silk crepon were used to create the costumes' organic textures, while references to 1970s clothing can be seen in the shape of some of the silhouettes.

在展出的每一天当中，模特都会选择一件符合个性特征的衣服穿在身上，然后在装置空间中来回走动，通过白色瓷砖的衬托，来展示服装的特性。

该装置中瓷砖区域的跨度与杜维恩馆相同，其中放置了一系列大型艺术作品。

这些艺术作品都来自泰特美术馆，Hamilton根据作品的形式与色彩放在装置中。

Each day, performers select a costume that informs and reflects their individual presentation of the character as they move around the space, which has been transformed through the use of white tiles.
Laid in a grid, the tiles span the length of the Duveens, encasing a series of large structures that serve as podiums for a number works of art.
The artworks, taken from Tate's collection, were chosen by Hamilton for their organic forms and colours.

Hamilton参考了许多20世纪初的法国作家兼戏剧家Antonin Artaud的作品，再结合其“图像的真实性（physical knowledge of images）”理论，通过艺术装置Squash，Hamilton希望能够表达出这种设计理念。

这些服饰的每个元素都来源于Hamilton对作品图像的探索，因为有些作品的设计初衷已经无处可觅。

For inspiration, Hamilton looked to the work of early 20th-century French writer and dramatist Antonin Artaud, and his call for the "physical knowledge of images". With Squash, Hamilton hopes to examine the concept of a bodily response to an idea or an image.
Each element of the work has evolved from Hamilton's interest in a found photograph, for which the original source has since been lost.

通过瓷砖、结构、雕塑，以及服装，模特不断地探索着艺术家对于这些图像信息的深层内涵，并且也让参观者共同探索其中的历史意义。

泰特美术馆的负责人Alex Farquharson说：“Anthea Hamilton通过其戏谑的艺术作品激发起人们的兴趣，为英国和国际艺术做出了杰出贡献。”

“这个委托任务激发了她的创作灵感，也让她的图像意识与表达能力得到充分发挥，让艺术与这个全新的环境相融合。”

Through the tiles, structures, sculptures and costumes, the performer explores their own interpretation of the image, inviting the viewer to imagine its history and intention.
"Anthea Hamilton has made a unique contribution to British and International Art with her visually playful works that both provoke and delight," said Alex Farquharson, director of Tate Britain.
"This compelling commission demonstrates her ability to seamlessly weave together captivating images and narratives, creating rich new environments in which to encounter works of art."

Hamilton的作品常常包含着来自世界各地艺术作品与时尚文化的设计理念，它们既大胆又幽默。其近期的艺术装置有或者特纳奖提名的作品“Lichen! Libido! Chastity!”，这件作品在美国纽约雕塑中心展出，并且曾经在2016年在伦敦泰特美术馆也进行过展览，以及在英国赫普沃斯韦克菲尔德美术馆（Hepworth Wakefield）展出的设计作品。

2008年，Jonathan Anderson创立了自己的同名品牌，他毕业于伦敦时装学院，并于2013年担任Loewe品牌的创意总监。

他的作品主要是对于性别与身份特征的探索，近期他仍然以这些主题策划了一项展览，名为“Disobedient Bodies”，该展览将在约克郡的英国赫普沃斯韦克菲尔德美术馆展出。

艺术装置The Squash的展览将持续至2018年10月7日。

Bold and humorous, Hamilton's work often incorporates references from the worlds of art, design, fashion and popular culture. Her other recent installations include the Turner Prize-nominated exhibition Lichen! Libido! Chastity! at the SculptureCenter in New York, which was re-staged at Tate Britain in 2016, and Anthea Hamilton Reimagines Kettle's Yard at The Hepworth Wakefield.
Jonathan Anderson founded his eponymous brand in 2008, having graduated from London College of Fashion. He became creative director at Loewe in 2013.
His own work often explores ideas of gender and identity. He recently curated an entire exhibition based around these themes, titled Disobedient Bodies, for the Chipperfield-designed Hepworth Wakefield in Yorkshire, England.
The Squash is on show at the Tate Britain until 7 October 2018.

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