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羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第1张图片

Moncler与八位设计师合作重新诠释羽绒服
Moncler teams up with eight designers to reinterpret its down jacket

由专筑网缕夕,李韧编译

Simone Rocha和Craig Green担任设计师,负责重新设计品牌Moncler新款Genius项目的羽绒服,该设计将在今年的米兰时装周上发布。

这个城市时装周在2018年2月20日夜晚开幕,服装品牌  Moncler邀请参观者前往一个巨大的米兰飞机库进行观看。

Simone Rocha and Craig Green were among designers tasked with redesigning Moncler's signature down jacket for its new Genius project, launched at this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On the opening night of the city's fashion week, 20 February 2018, the clothing brand Moncler invited visitors to a huge Milanese hangar.

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第2张图片

Moncler的 Genius项目共分为8个部分,分别排布于展览空间里,这个设计被品牌形容为“集思广益,绽放异彩”。

Moncler品牌的八位设计者包括伦敦设计师Simone Rocha和Craig Green,重新诠释羽绒服。

Rooms inside were each dedicated to one of eight collections making up the Moncler's Genius initiative, which is described by the brand as a "hub of exceptional minds operating in unison while simultaneously cultivating their singularity".
Moncler tasked each of the eight collaborators, which included London-based designers Simone Rocha and Craig Green, with reinterpreting its down jacket.

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第3张图片

Moncler品牌负责人要求他们保持羽绒的功能特性,确保设计仍然能够作为温暖的外套。

负责人表示:“每个项目都以Moncler经典款羽绒服为基础,不仅各具特色,又相互融合。”

“新设计的羽绒保持保暖的功能,看上去像是羽绒被,因此独特的实验方案随之而来。”

They were instructed to keep its function in mind, ensuring that the design would still perform as a warm coat.
"Each project has the classic Moncler down jacket as the main playground, stands on its own, and all of them unanimously converging on the item," said the brand.
"Keeping function at the core and approaching the duvet as an object, unique experiments ensue."

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第4张图片

每个合作设计都有相应的编号和设计说明。

第一个作品名为Moncler 1,时尚品牌Valentino创意总监Pierpaolo Piccioli的设计灵感是Moncler品牌 的“纯粹精髓”。

Each collaboration came with a corresponding number and mission statement.
The first collection, named Moncler 1, saw Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli design with the "pure essence" of Moncler in mind.

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第5张图片

因此,设计师将羽绒服尽量精简,将其设计成细长的形式,这种形式他曾经在以往的高定作品中运用。

Moncler 2基于品牌的传统,名为“向品牌的诞生致敬”,Moncler 1952服装以品牌的经典设计为基础,但采用了大胆的颜色和夸张的标志。

Moncler 3基于格勒诺布尔(Grenoble),这是Moncler的发源地,在法国阿尔卑斯山前的一座城市。设计采用混合搭配印花面料制成的外套,设计用户群体是登山和徒步旅行者。

Doing so, he stripped back the duvet jacket – creating minimal garments in elongated silhouettes, which he based on his previous couture collections.
Moncler 2 looked to the brand's heritage. Described as a "homage to its year of birth", the Moncler 1952 garments are based on the brand's classic designs – but in bold colours with enlarged logos.
Moncler 3 was based on Grenoble – a city at the front of the French Alps where Moncler began. While made from mix-and-match printed fabrics, the coats are designed as technical wear for mountain climbing and trekking.

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第6张图片

为了创造第四个系列,Moncler品牌负责人与时装设计师Simone Rocha合作,他以维多利亚女王时代登山者衬裙为基础,设计了许多结合衬裙的衣服。

Moncler 5由男装设计师Craig Green设计。设计师的目标是将人体抽象化,并且通过单色面料来表达。

To create the fourth collection, Moncler teamed up with fashion designer Simone Rocha, who created voluminous silhouettes based on photographs of Victorian climbers in petticoats.
Menswear designer Craig Green was behind Moncler 5. The designer aimed to abstract the body through his collection, which he created in monochrome fabrics.

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在Moncler 6系列中,设计师Kei Ninomiya独家使用了黑色面料,他将该品牌的羽绒服转化为一系列模块化元素。

在Moncler 7系列中,设计师Hiroshi Fujiwara展望亚洲街头文化,而Moncler 8系列,Palm Angels品牌的设计师则结合了粗体字。

Black fabric was also used exclusively by designer Kei Ninomiya, who transformed the brand's down jacket into a series of modular elements to create Moncler 6.
Hiroshi Fujiwara's Moncler 7 looked to streetwear subcultures, while Los Angeles label Palm Angels emblazoned Moncler 8 with bold lettering.

羽绒服千篇一律?快来看看羽绒怎么玩出时尚第8张图片

通过这8个系列,Moncler品牌希望更好地表达“消费者的独特性”。

该品牌负责人表示:“这些作品激发创意能力,增强了Moncler的独特性。因为产品会采用不同的形状,所以让它根据每个项目的概念自行表达。”
“所有项目的独特性反映了消费者的个性。”

By creating these eight diffusion collections, Moncler hopes to better-appeal to the "uniqueness of the consumer".
"Letting creativity run riot strengthens the uniqueness of Moncler," said the brand. "It allows the product to speak by itself as it takes different shapes according to the concept of each project."
"The uniqueness of all the projects mirrors the uniqueness of the consumers."

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Moncler 品牌的Genius系列产品将在本季米兰时装周上发布,米兰时装周于2月20日拉开帷幕,并将持续至2018年2月27日。

Moncler品牌于1952年由RenéRamillon创立,它的名字来源于法国格勒诺布尔(Grenoble)附近的阿尔卑斯山镇Monestier-de-Clermont的缩写。

该品牌后来被意大利企业家Remo Ruffini收购,并发起了Genius项目。

Moncler Genius launched during this season's Milan Fashion Week, which kicked off on 20 February and will run until 27 February 2018.
Moncler was founded in 1952 by René Ramillon, who took its name from the abbreviation of Monestier-de-Clermont – an Alpine town near Grenoble, France.
The brand was bought-out in by Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini, who initiated the Genius project.

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