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纯素皮革——要替时尚界洗清罪名的亚麻油毡第1张图片


纯素皮革-Lino皮革
Don Kwaning's Lino Leather is a vegan alternative to leather

由专筑网王帅,李韧编译

设计师Don Kwaning开发了一种名为“Lino皮革”的新材料,这种材料拥有皮革般的质地,主要用于室内和家具设计。

Kwaning开发的两种版本皮革使用了亚麻油毡,经过一系列的试验制成,这种亚麻油毡是一种常用的复合材料,价格低且耐用。

第一种皮革仿照瘤胃皮革,其厚度更大一些,这种皮革由牛胃制成,上面带有褶皱和蜂窝结构。Kwaning用这种材料来制造隔音墙板。

第二种皮革接近于马鞍皮,是一种常见的商用软材料。

Designer Don Kwaning has developed a new material, called Lino Leather, that emulates the texture of leather for interior and furniture design.
The two versions of Lino Leather developed by Kwaning are the result of a series of material experiments with linoleum – known as lino – the compound material most commonly used as an affordable and hardwearing floor covering.
The first is a thicker version that emulates rumen leather, which is usually made from a cow's stomach, and has folds and a honeycomb structure. Kwaning has used this to create wall panels that have acoustic dampening properties.
The second is closer to saddle leather, a softer material more commonly used in commercial applications.

纯素皮革——要替时尚界洗清罪名的亚麻油毡第2张图片


Kwaning设计的材料为双面材料,这种材料需要纺织品衬垫,以此来稳定两层材料之间的化合物,从而使两面都有相同的光洁度。Kwaning认为这种材料可以用于家具设计和室内装潢。

Kwaning说:“我加入了很多颜料,使材料更深一些。这使得Lino皮革拥有更自然的外观,因为这种皮革需要通过色彩而展示。”

他解释说:“你所看到的颜色是木粉的颜色,它是亚麻油皮革的重要组成部分。”

“深棕色来源于不同木材的混合。黄色是松木,而我在红色样品中使用了亚麻油中常用的颜料。通过这种方式,木材的颜色和颜料结合在一起,所以这种材料的自然外观不变,但是你可以选择颜色。”

Kwaning专门为天然材料寻找新用途,他找到地板制造商Forbo,与其合作开发了Lino皮革的全新使用方法,使其更加通用。

亚麻油毡通常由植物基油、葡萄干与矿物或软木细粉混合而成。该化合物通常以纺织品为基材,如帆布,并可以着色,形成不同的色彩。

Kwaning's material is double-sided, with the usual textile backing that is needed to stabilise the material rolled between two layers of the compound so both sides have the same finish. Kwaning suggests it could be used in furniture design and upholstery.
"I took out all the pigments to give the material more depth, which also gives the Linoleum Leather a more natural look since the materials that it is made from show in the colour," said Kwaning.
"The colours that you see are the colours of the wood-flour which is one of the Linoleum Leather components," he explained.
"Dark brown is a mixture of different wood species, yellow is pine wood and in the red sample I used one per cent of the regular amount of pigment that is used in linoleum. In this way the colour of the wood combines with the pigment, so you can choose a colour but the natural look remains."
Kwaning specialises in finding new uses for natural materials and teamed up with flooring manufacturer Forbo to develop new treatments for lino that could make it more versatile.
Linoleum is usually made from a compound consisting of plant-based oils and raisins mixed with minerals or fine powders such as ground cork. The compound is set onto a textile backing, such as canvas, and can be tinted to create different colour finishes.

纯素皮革——要替时尚界洗清罪名的亚麻油毡第3张图片


这是一种常用的地板覆盖物,因为添加了像石灰石这样的矿物质,它耐磨经造,并且拥有光滑的质地。

Kwaning从化合物中祛除一些材料,并增加了如亚麻油等材料,以此来改变lino皮革的特性。

Kwaning告诉Dezeen的记者:“亚麻油毡这种材料常常被忽视,而它却有巨大潜能。”

他说:“很多人甚至看不出来Lino皮革是一种天然材料,亚麻油毡已经存在了100多年。在这么长的时间内,它的生产和应用没有发生多大变化。在我看来,这几乎一成不变。”

It is most commonly used as a floor covering due to its ability to withstand heavy usage thanks to the addition of minerals such as lime, and is usually smooth in texture.
Kwaning removed some of the materials from the compound and increased others such as linseed oil to change the properties of the lino.
"Linoleum is an overlooked material," Kwaning told Dezeen. "It is a material with great future potential."
"Many people don't even know it's made from only natural materials," he said. "Linoleum has existed for over 100 years and in this time period not much has changed in the production and application, and in my opinion, also not so much has changed in the look."

纯素皮革——要替时尚界洗清罪名的亚麻油毡第4张图片


Lino皮革在荷兰设计周埃因霍芬设计学院的展览中亮相,Kwaning的作品是两个毕业设计作品之一。他的另一个项目“Medulla”比较注重生态包装,这种包装材料从生长迅速的软茎植物的髓中分离出来。

Kwaning说:“我喜欢那些通过引进全新生态替代品来取代有毒或伤害动物的材料,从而改变行业现状。”

世界各地的设计师、材料科学家和企业家一直致力于寻找素食材料来替代皮革,主要用于解决一些传统皮革制品所带来的环境和道德问题。

例如Piñatex材料由菠萝废叶和棕榈叶制成。

Lino Leather was on display as one of two graduation projects by Kwaning during Design Academy Eindhoven's exhibition at Dutch Design Week. His other project, Medulla, focused on creating ecological packaging and design materials from the pith of the fast-growing soft rush plant.
"I like projects that aim to change the industry by introducing new ecological substitutes for existing materials that are toxic or harm animals," said Kwaning.
Designers, material scientists and entrepreneurs around the world have been working to find vegetarian and vegan alternative to leather in a bid to tackle some of the environmental and ethical impacts of traditional leather production.
Examples include Piñatex, which is made from the wasted leaves of pineapple plants, and palm leather made from palm leaves.

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