Iceland 1: Landscape 冰岛景观1-冰岛|Mudholes-专筑网

Iceland 1: Landscape 冰岛景观1

2012-09-07 16702 Views iarch

景观, 冰岛, Mudholes, 蓝湖, 房子, 木材, 岩石, 纳维亚风格, 自然景观

Iceland 1: Landscape 冰岛景观1

特别鸣谢翻译一组12号安静提供的翻译，译稿版权归译者所有，转载请注明出处。

Mudpot - Krafla, Iceland (Photographer: Scudsone/Flickr)
The earth moves. Two centimeters per year. The eastern half of the island moves one way, the western half the other way. Iceland not only suffers from risky banking, the country is built on two tectonic plates creating an ever growing space in-between.
地球以每年两厘米的速度在移动。岛屿的东半部分在向一个方向移动，而西半部分在向另一个方向移动。冰岛不仅遇到了金融问题，而且这个国家是建立在空间不断变大的两个板块上的。

Right where the country is literally torn apart, it is at its best. Here the rock, one is standing on, is melted by a surfacing natural acid. ‘Mudholes’, the Icelandic call these places. At other places natural silica colors the water white-blue. People bath in it to soften their skin. A small resort called ‘Blue Lagoon’ conditions and sells the experience.
正是让这个国家四分五裂的地方有着最好的自然景观。这里的岩石，突出的是那些被天然酸性物质熔化的。冰岛人叫这些地方为Mudholes。在另外一些地方，天然的二氧化硅把水染成了水白蓝。人们经常在里面沐浴柔润自己的皮肤。有一个叫“蓝湖”的小型度假胜地提供这些服务以及售卖经验。

Everywhere steam escapes from the ground. Hot water bubbles to the surface. Power plants and factories cautiously tap into the resources. Not without risk. The construction of a power plant in the seventies in Krafla, in the northeast of Iceland, triggered volcanic activity in the area to such an extent that after nine years the site had moved four meters down, while the whole area had been covered with a fresh layer of lava.
蒸汽从地面散发出来，无处不在。热水中的气泡浮出水面。发电厂和工厂小心谨慎的进入这些资源胜地。这并不是没有危险的。七十年代的时候，在冰岛东北部的Krafla建有一个发电厂，以至于在九年后，该地区爆发的火山活动导致该区下降了四米，并且整个地区覆盖了一层新的熔岩。

What interests me is that the Icelandic government seems to increase their effort to protect the landscape against the effects of tourism. At first that seemed like a contradiction to me: to try to freeze something that is moving. Even more so, new volcanic eruptions are being predicted all over Iceland, what means that what is now being protected could be overflown by new lava any second.
让我感兴趣的是冰岛的政府增强了保护自然景观对旅游业影响的力度。起初，尝试着冻结一些事物的移动对我来说似乎是矛盾的。不仅如此，新预测到的火山将要在冰岛爆发，这表示着现在被保护的东西可以在瞬间内被新爆发的熔岩湮没。

However, after haven seen some of the damage done to the by ‘exploring’ tourists, I realized that the destruction outpaces the changing earth. In all its wildness, the ground is still highly fragile and therefore should definitely be protected.
然而，在看到一些很具有“探索性”的游客对熔岩区带来的破坏之后，我意识到破坏超越了地球的改变。在所有的自由发展物中，地面仍然非常脆弱，因此，一定要被加以保护。

In order to do so, routes through the landscaped are being marked and boardwalks are being installed. More and more parts of the country are defined as ‘national landscape’, which basically means these landscapes have a higher level of protection.
为了做到这一点，通往这些景点的线路已经被标记了，并且木牌也已安装。越来越多的地方被定义为“国家级景点”，这基本上意味着这些景观有了更高水平的保护。

Still, the Icelandic government isn’t completely thorough in the protection of its natural resources: in 2009 it is still possible to hunt for whales. Having seen them swimming in their habitat, I find that hard to understand. Positive is that for now ‘whaling’ is limited, as the demand for the black whale meat is low. The whale watching industry protests too. Every year about 60 whales are killed.
不过，冰岛并不是完全彻底地保护了它的自然资源。在2009年，它仍然是允许捕杀鲸鱼的。在看过那些鲸鱼在它们的栖息地畅游之后，我觉得更难理解。不过值得肯定的是，现在捕鲸是有限令的，因为现在对黑鲸鱼肉的需求降低了。同样赏鲸业也被抗议了。每年大约有60条鲸鱼被杀害。

Beyond the lava fields, the Icelandic landscape is barren. As barren as it can be. The rocky mountains and gravelly delta’s for large parts are not overgrown. If there is anything growing at all it is moss or grass. There are almost no trees.
除了熔岩区外，冰岛景观是贫瘠的。由于贫瘠，落基山脉和砾质三角洲大部分都是杂草丛生。即使有生长的东西，也只是苔或草，几乎没有树木。

Probably because it is winter for three-quarters of the year in the houses in the villages don’t have gardens. It is the modernist dream: the houses simply stand in, on top of, the natural landscape. There is no difference between the landscape outside or inside the village. It is simply continuous.
可能是因为那里四分之三的时间都是冬天，人们都在乡村的房子里而不是在弄花园。在自然景观中建房子是现代主义思想。外部和内部乡村景观没有任何区别，这只不过是连续的。

The houses themselves are constructed in wood, in a Scandinavian style. Since Iceland has no trees, all building materials have to be imported. As this is expensive, the architecture throughout the country remains basic. Because of the humidity and long winters the wooden construction is mostly finished with a tin or plastic cladding. The first houses on the island were build with wood from shipwrecks.
这些房子是用木头建造的，为斯堪的纳维亚风格。由于冰岛没有树木，所有的建筑材料都需要进口。因为这很昂贵，所以在全国各地的建筑保持了基本构架。由于湿度和长期的冬天的影响，通常是用锡和塑料包层完成的。岛上的第一幢房子是用沉船上的木材建造的。

In sense of urbanization Iceland can be divided into ‘Reykjavik’ and ‘the rest’. Almost the whole population of the country, about 300,000, lives in the capital. The agglomerations in the rest of Iceland are spread along the coast and vary from less than a hundred inhabitants to 15,000 for Akureyri, the second largest city in the country. Basically urbanity in Iceland starts and ends with Reykjavik.
在城市化的意义上，冰岛可以被分成“雷克雅未克”和“其它的”这两部分。整个国家住在首都的人口大约在30万。其他人则分布在沿海地区，居民数量从不到一百人到阿库雷里的1万5千人不等，阿库雷里是国家第二大城市。基本上城市化随着雷克雅未克开始和结束。

The pre-crisis wealth in Iceland also doesn’t seem to have reached further than the Reykjavik region. Looking at the architecture, the countryside has seen almost no investments whatsoever in the past decennia. In Reykjavik all past economic energy has capitalized in the suburbs. Iceland is a car nation, Reykjavik is a car city.
之前的金融危机似乎并没有走出雷克雅未克地区。看到这些建筑，便可知道在过去十年中乡村似乎没有任何投资。在雷克雅未克，过去所有的经济能源都投资在郊区。冰岛是一个汽车国家，雷克雅未克是一个汽车城。

I wonder how sustainable these developments are. Maybe they are. The accessibility of the warmth of the earth means that there is plenty of warm water to heat the suburb houses. It also means that this might be an ideal country to produce hydrogen fuel. Mercedes-Benz already has a couple of hydrogen buses running on the west part of the island.
我不知道这些怎么可持续发展，或许是这样吧。大地的热量的可接近性意味着那里有大量的温水给郊区的房子提供热量。它同样也意味着那里可能会是一个产生氢燃料的理想国家。梅赛德斯 - 奔驰已经有几个氢公交在一些西部的岛屿上运行。

In the past year the Icelandic currency has lost half its value. Prices are now comparable to those in the Netherlands, not the cheapest country in the world. Since its three banks went bankrupt and the Icelandic government took them over, the country is on the verge of collapse. The debt caused by the bankruptcy of the Icesave bank only adds up to 40,000 euro for each Icelandic family. People told me the government won’t be able to pay the unemployment benefits from November on.
在过去的一年中，冰岛的货币已经失去了其价值的一半。现在的价格和荷兰相比还不是世界上最便宜的国家。自从其三大银行破产后，冰岛政府接管了，现在他们国家已是面临崩溃的边缘。由于银行破产导致的债务增加了每个冰岛家庭4万欧元的负担。人们告诉我，政府从11月份起将无法支付失业救济金。