来自KO事务所的Yves Saint Laurent马拉喀什博物馆
Studio KO celebrates Yves Saint Laurent's fashion oeuvre with Marrakech museum

由专筑网李韧，曹逸希编译

KO工作室在马拉喀什设计了Yves Saint Laurent博物馆，其展馆特点是一种类似蕾丝的红砖立面以及一种由高级时装夹克衬里所启发的内部空间。

A lace-like brickwork facade and an interior inspired by a couture jacket lining are some of the fashion-inspired features of Studio KO's Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech.

为了纪念传奇设计师Yves Saint Laurent的杰出贡献，这座4000平方米的展览馆是非洲的第一个时尚博物馆。

建筑中有永久展厅与临时展厅，还有藏书超过6000册的图书馆、一个150座的礼堂、书店，以及露天咖啡厅。

另外，博物馆中还有档案室和实验室，主要用于高级衣物的收藏与保养，高级定制的配饰和绘画属于皮埃尔•贝尔热（Pierre Bergé）基金会。

Dedicated to the work of legendary couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the 4,000-square-metre building is the first dedicated fashion museum in Africa.
It includes permanent and temporary exhibition spaces, a research library with over 6,000 volumes, a 150-seat auditorium, and a bookstore and terrace cafe.
In addition, the museum houses a conservation archive and laboratory that will store and upkeep part of the extensive collection of clothing, haute-couture accessories and drawings belonging to the Fondation Pierre Bergé.

博物馆位于 Yves Saint Laurent街，就在马约尔花园（Jardin Majorelle）的旁边，这是一个12英亩的植物园，其原来的主人是艺术家Jacques Majorelle，但于20世纪80年代被Saint Laurent 和Bergé收购。

建筑师在设计过程中充分考虑了艺术家的工作范畴，同时也利用了当地的建筑材料与技术。

The museum is located on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, next door to the Jardin Majorelle – a 12-acre botanical garden that formerly belonged to artist Jacques Majorelle, but was bought and restored by Saint Laurent and Bergé in the 1980s.
The building's design incorporates references to the couturier's work, while also making use of local materials and building techniques.

建筑外观采用赤陶砖砌体，使人们回忆起织物的经纬密度，形成具有肌理感的立面效果，并且还采用了弯曲和有棱角的的大地色水磨石，法国建筑师说这种设计方法参考了“Yves Saint Laurent先生精致而大胆的设计作品”。

作为对比，博物馆的入口大厅运用了光滑的白色墙壁，主要用于呼应时尚夹克的天鹅绒衬里。大厅弯曲墙面上镶嵌着单一色彩的玻璃窗，这种设计灵感则来源于摩洛哥传统的渐变色玻璃。

Its exterior incorporates terracotta brickwork designed to recall the warp and weft of fabric, as well as curved and angular volumes in earthen-coloured terrazzo that the French architects said reference the "succession of delicate and bold forms that characterised the work of Yves Saint Laurent".
In contrast, the museum's entrance hall has smooth white walls that are designed to evoke the velvety lining of a couture jacket. The monochromatic stained glass windows that circle the curved lobby wall are inspired by traditional Moroccan-style stained glass.

舞台设计师Christophe Martin设计了博物馆中约400平方米的永久性展览空间，在这里展出了50件高级定制作品。

整个展览的主题围绕着Saint Lauren先生的作品展开，其中有阳刚的女性、黑人、非洲与摩洛哥人、理想的远行、花园以及艺术，典型的作品有豌豆大衣、蒙德里安裙、“吸烟套装”和猎人夹克。

The museum's 400-square-metre permanent exhibition space, is designed by scenographer Christophe Martin, and showcases 50 couture creations.
The exhibition is set around themes that were central to Saint Lauren's work: Masculine-Feminine; Black, Africa and Morocco; Imaginary Voyages; Gardens; and Art. Key pieces include the pea coat, the Mondrian dress, "le smoking" and the safari jacket.

展区的背景为黑色，并设置有影音设备。这些设备也能够展示出设计师对作品的书面及口头描述、照片、访问、配乐以及电影，这些都能很好地诠释作品的设计核心。

Christophe Martin说：“这不是一次回顾展览，而是Saint Lauren先生的工作重要部分。”

“以前从未面世的50件服装在这样一个低调的环境中展出，没有矫揉造作与浮夸的言语，这些作品就是Saint Lauren先生的心血，大多数以前从未见过，它们伴随并强调了先生的工作。在这些作品周围则是一幅巨大的Yves Saint Laurent先生的肖像画。”

The exhibition's spot-lit models are backdropped by black painted walls, where an audiovisual installation is projected. The installation brings together written and spoken words, photographs, interviews, music and film extracts that contextualise the exhibited garments.
"It is not a retrospective, but rather a voyage to the heart of his work," said Christophe Martin.
"More that 50 garments, most never before seen, are displayed in an understated environment, one without affectation, which accompanies and underscores the work. An immense, luminous and radiating portrait of Yves Saint Laurent envelopes the garments."

Christophe也设计了博物馆的书店，内部设置有琥珀色的隔板，其色彩与Saint Laurent的香水瓶相同。

建筑中随处可见传统的摩洛哥材料，如釉面砖，茶花砖、花岗岩、月桂木和橡木，这些材质充分地运用在了博物馆的各个角落，例如咖啡厅、图书馆、楼梯间、院落以及走廊。

Christophe also designed the museum's bookstore, which is lined with lacquered amber shelving – the same colour as Saint Laurent's Opium perfume bottle.
Traditional Moroccan materials – such as glazed bricks, zellige tiles, granite, laurel branches and oak – are incorporated in a contemporary way in other areas, including the museum's cafe, library, stairwells, courtyards and hallways.

一个130座的礼堂用于放映电影、时装表演和纪录片，同时还会有现场音乐会，礼堂也会用于举办一些关于植物学和柏柏尔文化以及服装展览研讨会。

博物馆的临时展厅展出了来自Jacques Majorelle的30件艺术作品，这些作品已经由摩洛哥某私人机构收藏。设计师为临时展厅设计了亮蓝色的空间色彩。

An oak-lined 130-seat auditorium will showcase a programme of films, fashion shows and documentaries. As well as live music, the auditorium will host symposiums about botany and berber culture, fashion and costume.
The museum's temporary exhibition space opens with a showcase of 30 artworks by Jacques Majorelle that have been lent by private and institutional Moroccan collections. It has been painted a bright Majorelle blue for the occasion.

法国设计师Philippe Apeloig于2010年为Yves Saint Laurent设计了巴黎Petit Palais怀旧展览的海报，Philippe Apeloig也为这个博物馆设计了特别的视觉效果。

室内设计师Yves Taralon为博物馆设计了75座咖啡厅，运用了浅色木材、石膏灯具、白色大理石和以淡黄色为主的柳木家具。

French designer Philippe Apeloig, who in 2010 had designed the poster for the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais in Paris, has created the museum's visual identity.
Interior designer Yves Taralon designed the museum's 75-seat cafe, which features pale-coloured wood, plaster light fixtures, white marble and wicker furniture with canary yellow upholstery.

“马拉喀什的Yves Saint Laurent 博物馆将我们熟悉的两个世界连接了起来—时尚与摩洛哥。”KO工作室负责人说。

“自从我们的工作室成立以来，我们的许多设计灵感都来源于Yves Saint Laurent。”

"Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech combines two worlds that we are very familiar with and that are dear to our hearts: fashion and Morocco," said Studio KO.
"Since the founding of our architectural firm, we have worked in this country that so inspired Yves Saint Laurent."

“我们非常高兴能够参与这个项目，并以我们的方式来纪念这位20世纪最具声望的时尚设计师。”建筑师继续说道。

该工作室由Olivier Marty和Karl Fournier合作建立，Yves Saint Laurent的长期合作伙伴工作室Pierre Bergé将本次项目委托给KO工作室。

"It is with great joy that we have worked on this ambitious project, and contributed in our way to the history and prestige of the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century," the architects continued.
Established by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier, Studio KO was commissioned to design the museum by the late Pierre Bergé, the longtime partner of Yves Saint Laurent.

Bergé是本次项目的策划人，于2017年9月8日去世，此时距离博物馆的开幕仅仅只有一个月。

他在今年的一份声明中说：“当Yves Saint Laurent在1966年首次发现马拉喀什这个地方时，他就立刻被这座城市所感动，于是，他决定在这里买一座房子，并定期回来。”

“于是50年后，我们便设计建造了一个属于他的作品的博物馆，这对于国家、人民来说是一件好事。”

Bergé, who masterminded the project, passed away on 8 September 2017, just over a month before its opening yesterday.
He said in a statement earlier this year: "When Yves Saint Laurent first discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the city that he immediately decided to buy a house here, and returned regularly."
"It feels perfectly natural, 50 years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired by this country."

马拉喀什博物馆的开幕与Yves Saint Laurent 巴黎博物馆巧妙重合，这座博物馆位于前时尚品牌现在归属于Pierre Bergé 基金会的马索第五大道Yves Saint Laurent的现任总部。

摄影：Nicolas Mathéus

The opening of the Marrakech museum coincides with the inauguration of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, which is located at the former fashion house and current headquarters of the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent at 5 Avenue Marceau.
Photography is by Nicolas Mathéus.


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