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Fornasetti作品“Tema E Variazioni(变奏曲)”:一个无限图标的故事
Fornasetti's 'Tema E Variazioni': the story of an infinite icon

由专筑网李佳琪,吴静雅编译

就像传说中被喻为“绝代佳人”的特洛伊战争中的Helen(海伦)一样,19世纪迷人的歌剧演员Lina Cavalieri,后来吸引了一位好奇而折衷的意大利艺术家,使其开始了毕生的创作之旅。1913年出生于米兰的Piero Fornasetti ,在一份旧杂志中看到这位意大利女高音肖像之后,就被她的容貌所迷住。沉醉于她的古典美、典雅的形象以及天堂般催眠的凝视, Fornasetti 自1952年开始驻足于为“世界上最美丽的女人”作画,并且再未停止。

Like Helen of troy, who legend named ‘the face that launched a thousand ships’, Lina Cavalieri — the wildly-enchanting 19th century opera singer — would later lead a curious and eclectic Italian artist on a lifelong creative voyage. Piero Fornasetti, born in Milan in 1913, was first spellbound by the visage of the Italian soprano after spotting her portrait in an old magazine. Bewitched by her classical beauty, formal features and heavenly hypnotic gaze, Fornasetti first embarked on a sojourn to paint the face of ‘the most beautiful woman in the world’ in 1952 — and never stopped.

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第1张图片
Barnaba Fornasetti和限量版书‘Tema E Variazioni(变奏曲)’/Barnaba Fornasetti and the limited-edition book ‘Tema E Variazioni’

尽管Fornasetti从未见过她,但凭借着无限的创造力和对迷人的Cavalieri的忠诚,最终成为了一种艺术上的迷恋,这将在未来延续。他在她身上看到了古典美的典型形象,伴随着独特的生动和典雅的吸引力——这张脸可以随着视觉直觉在他的脑海中浮现而不断地被重塑。被这样的永恒的诱惑力所点燃,Fornasetti 让他的想象力疯狂地运行,以至于今天有近400种不同的作品出现。就这样,Fornasetti的故事“Tema E Variazioni”开始了。

Although he never met her, Fornasetti’s boundless creativity and loyalty to the captivating Cavalieri became an artistic obsession that would eventually carry across generations to come. He saw in her the quintessential image of classical beauty, with a uniquely graphic, formal appeal — a face that could be endlessly reinvented as visual intuitions surfaced in his mind. Ignited by the ever-alluring icon, Fornasetti let his imagination run wild, to such an extent that nearly 400 different interpretations exist today. Thus begins the story of Fornasetti’s ‘Tema E Variazioni’.

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系列瓷质壁板‘Tema E Variazioni’|瓷/Wallplates from the series ‘Tema E Variazioni’ | Porcelain

多年来,Fornasetti的“Theme And Variations(主题和变奏曲)”已经经历了数以百计的转变、改动,具有讽刺意味的再想象以及装饰重释。艺术家把无限的想象力运用在 Cavalieri忧郁的眼睛和丰满的嘴唇上,使脸部适应各种超现实的场景和情况。自那以后,她有了卓别林式的胡须、眼镜、滑雪面罩、皇冠和舌穿孔;以沙漏、蝴蝶、热气球、唱片播放机和干酪轮的形式被塑造;被画为在眨眼,舌头伸出,鼻子上有一只蜜蜂,从五颜六色的花束后面向外窥视;而且表现为俏皮的、神秘的、困惑的和羞涩的。

Fornasetti’s ‘Theme And Variations’ have come to comprise hundreds of transformations, alterations, ironic re-imaginations and decorative re-interpretations over the years. The artist deployed his infinite imagination towards Cavalieri’s melancholy eyes and plump lips, adapting the face to be framed in a variety of surreal scenarios and situations. She has since donned a chaplin-esque moustache, eyeglasses, ski mask, crown, and tongue piercing; has been molded in the form of an hourglass, butterfly, hot-air balloon, record player, and wheel of cheese; has been pictured winking, with her tongue sticking out, with a bee on her nose, and peeking out from behind a colorful bouquet of flowers; and has appeared to be flirtatious, mystified, baffled, and coy.

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第3张图片
橱柜“Ortensia(奥滕西亚)”|多层木丝,手工涂漆/Cabinet ‘Ortensia’ | Multilayer wood silk-screened, painted and lacquered by hand

“公众告诉我,我所做的不仅仅是装饰。”Fornasetti 于著名场合描述道,“这是对想象力的一种邀请,促使我们思考,让我们从周围那些过于机械化和不人道的事物中解脱出来,它们是穿越想象领域的门票。”

‘The pubic explained to me that what I did was something more than decoration,’ Fornasetti famously described. ‘It was an invitation to the imagination, to think, to escape from those things around us that are too mechanized and inhuman. they were tickets to travel through the realm of imagination.’

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装饰花瓶‘Infilzato(阴间)’|手工制银金陶瓷/Vase ‘Infilzato’ | Hand-made ceramic with silver and gold

Fornasetti无拘无束的想象力被应用于物品和家居配件,其中最著名的是陶瓷盘子,但也适用于地毯、烛台、花瓶、椅子、灯具、橱柜和衣服。在米兰的Fornasetti工作室里,作品均是由精湛的手工制作的。每个工匠可能为一个作品工作几个月才能完成,这里有一个专门的团队致力于木工、陶器制作、绘画、涂漆和归档工作。“Tema E Variazioni”系列一直是世界各地纪念性博物馆展览的主题,受到许多人包括艺术爱好者和狂热者的喜爱。

Fornasetti’s uninhibited imagination has been applied to objects and home accessories, most famously ceramic plates, but also to rugs, candle holders, vases, chairs, lamps, cabinets and clothing. Pieces are expertly crafted by hand in the Fornasetti atelier in Milan. Each artisan may work on a single object for months before the piece is finally finished, with a dedicated team working on woodworking, pottery making, painting, varnishing and archiving. The ‘Tema E Variazioni’ series has been the subject of monumental museum exhibitions across the world, is closely treasured by many, and adored by art-lovers and enthusiasts alike.

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第5张图片
系列瓷质壁板“Tema E Variazioni”|瓷/Wallplates from the series ‘Tema E Variazioni’ | Porcelain

当今 Fornasetti的掌舵人是Piero的儿子Barnaba。他继承了父亲的观点并且有着50年的积累,塑造和重建了公司的悠久历史,是一位真正的有远见的艺术家。在Barnaba敏锐的艺术指导下,“Tema E Variazioni”的前100幅插图被收集在一本手工制作的限量版的书中。刊物是手工印在棉纸上,手工装订,文字是由拓印完成。同年,该系列扩大了影响范围,开始展示和制作莫扎特歌剧“Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni”的布景设计。这些主题来自Fornasetti档案馆和“Tema E Variazioni”中的图像,成为了一场于米兰和佛罗伦萨展示的伟大表演的背景,把Fornasetti的超现实世界带到了舞台上。

At the helm of the Fornasetti universe today is Barnaba, Piero’s son. A true visionary and artist himself, he has inherited the vision of his father and a fifty-year collection, and has helped shaped and rebuild the company’s long legacy. Under his keen artistic direction, the first 100 illustrations from ‘Tema E Variazioni’ have been collected in a handmade and limited-edition book. The publication is printed on cotton paper using a hand press, is hand-bound and accompanied by text in monotype typography. In the same year, the series expanded its reach to present and produce the set design of the Mozart opera ‘Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni’. themes drawn from the Fornasetti archives and images from ‘Tema E Variazioni’ became the backdrop for a monumental performance shown in Milan and Florence, bringing the surreal world of Fornasetti to the stage.

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第6张图片
茶壶‘Tema E Variazioni’|金瓷/Teapot ‘Tema E Variazioni’ | Porcelain with gold

Barnaba说:“从 Piero那里,我继承了想象,发明和梦想——是张开双眼的梦想。” “ Piero所做的事情,我们会在他之后继续坚守,代代相传。”

如果说 Fornasetti的故事让我们感受到了什么,那就是“Tema E Variazioni”将会被永远流传。

‘From Piero, I have inherited the desire to imagine, to invent, to dream — as it were — with my eyes open,’ Barnaba says of his father. ‘The things Piero made, and we after him, are here to stay…they are for keeping, to be passed on from generation to generation.’
If the story of Fornasetti reminds us of anything, it’s that ‘Tema E Variazioni’ will be told infinitely.

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第7张图片
椅子‘Lux Gstaad’|多层木丝/手工涂漆/Chair ‘Lux Gstaad’ | Multilayer wood silk-screened, painted and lacquered by hand

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第8张图片
系列瓷质壁板“Tema E Variazioni”|瓷/Wallplates from the series ‘Tema E Variazioni’ | Porcelain

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第9张图片
凳子‘Gift(礼物)’|多层木丝,手工涂漆/Stool ‘Gift’ | Multilayer wood silk-screened, painted and lacquered by hand

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第10张图片
装饰花瓶‘Viola’|手工瓷/Vase ‘Viola’ | Hand-made ceramic

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第11张图片
盘子‘Bocca’|金属丝筛,手工涂漆/Tray ‘Bocca’ | Metal silk-screened, painted and lacquered by hand

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第12张图片
装饰瓶‘Tete à Tete’|人工吹制的玻璃丝筛/Vase ‘Tete à Tete’ | Mouth-blown glass silk-screened

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第13张图片
与Comme Des Garçons合作期间的Fornasetti商店配件/The Fornasetti store fitting during the collaboration with Comme Des Garçons

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Casa Fornasetti,浴室‘Tema E Variazioni’/Casa Fornasetti, bathroom ‘Tema E Variazioni’ | image courtesy of Fornasetti

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第15张图片
围巾‘Occhi’|羊绒和丝绸/Scarf ‘Occhi’ | Cashmere and silk

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第16张图片
“Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni”歌剧舞美由Fornasetti设计/“Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni’, the opera presented by Fornasetti | Image by Arianna Sanesi

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第17张图片
Piero fornasetti肖像/Portrait of Piero Fornasetti | Image by Franco Petazzi

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第18张图片
茶壶‘Tema E Variazioni’|金瓷/Teapot 'Tema E Variazioni' | Porcelain with gold

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第19张图片
装饰花瓶‘Viola’|手工瓷/Vase 'Viola' | Hand-made ceramic

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第20张图片
凳子‘Gift(礼物)’|多层木丝,手工涂漆/Stool 'Gift' | Multilayer wood silk-screened, painted and lacquered by hand

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第21张图片
装饰花瓶‘Infilzato(阴间)’|手工制银金陶瓷/Vase 'Infilzato' | Hand-made ceramic with silver and gold

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第22张图片
Cilindro 'Rombolina' |多层木丝,手工涂漆/Cilindro 'Rombolina' | Multilayer wood silk-screened, lacquered by hand

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第23张图片
Leonor Fini,Max Ernst和Enrico Colombotto Rosso与系列“Tema E Variazioni”出品的第一个盘子/leonor Fini, Max Ernst and Enrico Colombotto Rosso with the first plate from the series 'Tema E Variazioni'

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第24张图片
“Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni”歌剧舞美由Fornasetti设计/“Il dissoluto punito ossia il Don Giovanni', the opera presented by Fornasetti | Image by Arianna Sanesi

无限狂想曲之“世界上最美丽的女人”第25张图片
系列瓷质壁板“Tema E Variazioni”|瓷/Wallplates from the series 'Tema E Variazioni' | Porcelain


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