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当贝聿铭遇上LV——建筑领袖与时尚巨头能产生怎样的火花?第1张图片

贝聿铭的美秀美术馆成为LV2018年度走秀场地
IM Pei's Miho Museum provides backdrop for Louis Vuitton resort 2018 show

由专筑网李韧,韩平编译

路易•威登近年的走秀大多在树木丛生的山上度假村举行,其中有一场走秀将在由美籍华人建筑师贝聿铭设计的日本美秀博物馆举办。

Models emerged from a forested mountainside at this year's Louis Vuitton resort show, which took place at the Miho Museum in Japan designed by Chinese-American architect IM Pei.

当贝聿铭遇上LV——建筑领袖与时尚巨头能产生怎样的火花?第2张图片

这个由Nicolas Ghesquiére创办的法国奢侈品品牌的负责人在京都附近的小镇上提出这个构想。

Ghesquiére几年前来到过这里,从此被贝聿铭先生的设计思路深深吸引。

继2016年在Palm Springs沙漠和去年在尼迈耶的博物馆前举办走秀之后,这位创意总监计划选择另一个景观场所,从而决定选择日本Shigaraki mountains作为2018年度假系列走秀的背景。

The French fashion house, headed up by Nicolas Ghesquiére, presented its Japan-inspired collection at the iconic site near Kyoto this weekend.
Ghesquiére had visited the site a few years ago and was drawn to the way Pei had integrated architecture into the mountainous terrain.
After 2016's show in the Palm Springs desert and last year's meandering catwalk around the Oscar Niemeyer museum, the creative director wanted to introduce another landscape and chose the forested Shigaraki mountains as the backdrop for the 2018 resort collection.

当贝聿铭遇上LV——建筑领袖与时尚巨头能产生怎样的火花?第3张图片

“日本是一个我很熟悉的国家。”他说。“这是我二十年前寻找灵感的第一个地方,从那时起我就成了这里的常客。”

“这个系列产品是日本给我带来的灵感。”

"Japan is a country I know well," he said. "It was one of the first places I travelled to when I was seeking inspiration, some twenty years ago, and I've been a regular visitor ever since."
"This collection is the culmination of what Japan has given to me for a very long time."

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在博物馆建筑里有一条通往山坡的通道。模特从管形金属隧道里走出来,来到前方的吊桥,观赏者则在两侧看秀。

这个系列的作品以城市和自然环境为出发点,参考了充满特色的武士服装,并且与日本风景和现代服饰相结合。

The catwalk began inside the museum building, which is buried into the mountainside. Models emerged from the tube-shaped metal tunnel and out onto a suspended bridge, where onlookers flanked either side of the runway.
With the combination of the urban and natural environment as a starting point, the collection featured samurai-inspired dresses, garments inked with Japanese landscapes and modern takes on ceremonial costumes.

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模特们的腰带被整合成锥形图案,而上衣和皮革毛衣则是为了纪念日本武士所穿的盔甲。

手袋和装饰都具有日本传统Kabuki面具的意向,在日本,Kabuki面具是由古典舞蹈和戏剧表演的演员所佩戴。

“2018年度走秀结合了现代文化与传统文明,结合了未来主义和传统赞歌、结合了有活力城市和精致景观。”LV负责人说,LV在Dezeen热搜榜排第157名。

Obi belts were integrated into the pattern of tapered trousers, and jersey and leather sweaters were intended to recall the armour worn by Japanese warriors.
Handbags and clutches were decorated with Kabuki masks, which are worn during classical Japanese dance and drama performances.
"The 2018 cruise collection alternates between the present day and a noble ancestral civilisation, between futurism and poetry, between huge, vibrant cities and delicate landscapes," said Louis Vuitton, which ranked at number 157 on the inaugural Dezeen Hot List.


上个月刚过完100岁生日的贝聿铭受到Mihoko Koyama继承人的委托设计了这座美秀博物馆。

该建筑采用了屋顶半透明的三角形设计,以唤起日本传统建筑的记忆。建筑形式折叠复杂,同时光线能够从三角形玻璃透过石灰石墙面进入室内。

贝聿铭在1997年完成这座建筑的设计任务,但这是这个博物馆却是第一次被用来举办这样规模的活动。

路易•威登的上一次走秀是来自英国设计师Es Devlin的创意,他在奥斯卡•尼迈耶设计的里约当代艺术博物馆的周围为模特们设计了蜿蜒的表演场地。

IM Pei, who turned 100 last month, was commissioned to build the Miho Museum by Mihoko Koyama – the heiress to the Japanese Toyobo textile business.
The building features a roof of faceted translucent triangles designed to evoke traditional Japanese architecture. It folds over the complex and allows tempered light into its limestone-lined galleries.
The architect completed the building in 1997, but this is the first time it has been used to stage an event on this scale.
Louis Vuitton's last show was realised by British set designer Es Devlin, who created a twisting pathway around the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Niterói in Rio.

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出处:本文译自www.dezeen.com/,转载请注明出处。

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