雷姆•库哈斯、康士坦丁•葛切奇和布鲁莱克兄弟等设计师为Prada设计新作品
Rem Koolhaas, Konstantin Grcic and Bouroullec brothers all create designs for Prada

由专筑网缕夕，李韧编译

建筑师雷姆•库哈斯（Rem Koolhaas）、雅克•赫尔佐格（ Jacques Herzog）和皮埃尔•德•梅隆（Pierre de Meuron）以及设计师康士坦丁•葛切奇（Konstantin Grcic）、布鲁莱克兄弟（Ronan和Erwan Bouroullec）为时尚奢侈品牌Prada的2018年秋冬男装系列设计了他们的作品。

Prada是意大利时尚品牌，邀请了一众设计师为其2018年秋冬男装进行服装和配饰设计，这些作品近日在米兰男装时装周展出。

Architects Rem Koolhaas, Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron, and designers Konstantin Grcic, and Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec have all contributed to Prada's Autumn Winter 2018 menswear collection.
The Italian label invited a range of designers to create garments and accessories for its latest collection, which was presented yesterday as part of this season's menswear fashion week in Milan.


布鲁莱克兄弟设计了一个双肩包，灵感来自于携带和运输艺术品的公文包/Brothers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec created a shoulder bag inspired by folders used to carry and transport art

这个合作项目名为“Prada Invites”，要求每个设计师都采用黑色尼龙的材料，表现“工业”特性，因此这种材料贯穿整个系列作品。

该品牌认为这种材料能够代表“永恒、实用和珍贵，并且极具优雅气息”。

品牌负责人表示：“这种材料最先用于工作服，后来又运用于军事和工业领域，让它超越了传统，表现出全新的颠覆性和复杂性。”

布鲁莱克兄弟设计了一个双肩包，灵感来自于携带和运输艺术品的文件夹，对于他们的作品，Ronan Bouroullec说：“我一直喜欢人们使用的公文包，譬如说建筑师、画家和学生用公文包装着他们的作品，公文包的形状呈矩形，其形态与运动的身躯形成对比。”

“这个作品采用这种几何形状，并将其固定成双肩包，其内部有着固定的节点、末端固定点、松紧带、小孔，以及单一的色彩，这样产生微妙的图形趣味性。”

The collaboration, named Prada Invites, called for each designer to take an "industrial" approach using black nylon – a material seen throughout the rest of the collection.
The brand describes this material as "timeless, practical yet precious, an avant-garde expression of elegance for today".
"Drawn from the universe of workwear, the military and industry, the fabric transgresses traditional signifiers of opulence, expressing a fresh breed of transgressive and subversive sophistication," it said.
For their offering, brothers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec created a bag inspired by folders used to carry and transport art.
"I've always liked the profiles of people – architects, painters and students – walking around with art folders; the movement of that rectangle, its clear-cut, fixed geometry contrasting with the moving bodies," said Ronan Bouroullec.
"This project takes that geometry and instils it in a shoulder bag, with its inside gusset, low fastening, elastic bands and eyelet, and use of a single colour, which produces a subtle graphical playfulness."


雷姆•库哈斯（Rem Koolhaas）设计了一个背在身体正面的背包/Rem Koolhaas created a backpack that is designed to be worn on the front of the body

雷姆•库哈斯的OMA建筑事务所与Prada有着长期的合作关系，他为Prada设计了一款背包，这款背包可以背在身体前面。

这款背包可以单手操控，库哈斯的目的是创造一款经典作品。

这款背包有着不同的隔间来放置不同的物品，使用者可以轻松地整理他们的东西。

“如今，我们都需要一款随身行李包，方便机场安检，而这个背包可以很好地放置如笔记本电脑、充电器、书本、化妆包和其他一些个人的物品。”

他继续说：“这款产品对‘背包’的定义进行了重新解读，很适合当代的城市公民。背包正面的位置给人一种更加亲密的感觉，让人们能够更好地控制背包，避免无意中产生的不经意碰撞。”

Rem Koolhaas, whose practice OMA has a long-standing partnership with Prada, also designed a bag – a backpack that is designed to be worn on the front.
Crediting Prada as being "single-handedly responsible for the return of the backpack", Koolhaas aimed to put a new spin on the classic typology.
His creation features compartments designated for different devices, meaning users can easily organise their belongings.
"Today, waiting in line for a typical airport check of carry-on luggage, it is surprising to note how the shapeless container of the backpack, is inhabited by strict, orthogonal devices like the laptop, the charger, books, toilet bag, and how awkward it is to liberate these objects from their containment in the backpack," he said.
"This project proposes a reinterpretation of the backpack, more suitable to the contemporary urban citizen," he continued. "The frontal position gives a more intimate sense of ownership – a better control of movement, avoiding the chain of oblivious collisions that the backpack inadvertently generates."


德国设计师康斯坦丁•葛切奇（Konstantin Grcic）的作品看上去像是穿着多件式的渔具/German designer Konstantin Grcic looked to multipocketed fishing vests for his garment

康斯坦丁•葛切奇用黑色尼龙材料重新诠释了传统意义上渔夫穿的多袋背心。

他说：“我的第一个想法是重现约瑟夫•博伊斯（Joseph Beuys）著名的Prada黑色尼龙钓鱼背心。后来，我制作了两个模型，以更抽象的方式来表达各部件。”

与此同时，建筑师雅克•赫尔佐格（  Jacques Herzog）和皮埃尔•德•梅隆（Pierre de Meuron）则设计了一件印有古代语言图案的衬衫。

赫尔佐格和德•梅隆说：“文字既是设计也是装饰，相当于有力的象征和标志，现在的文身相对来说显得没什么意义。我们在这里遇到的语言就像一个考古发现，就像我们古代的卷轴或者纪念币那样迷人，因为我们意识到它的年代悠久，并且其数量所剩无几。”

German designer Konstantin Grcic used the black nylon material to reinterpret the multi-pocketed vests traditionally worn by fisherman.
"My first thought was to recreate Joseph Beuys' famous fishing vest in Prada black nylon," he said. "Later, I worked on two models, which interpret the theme in a more abstract way: Apron and Hood."
Meanwhile architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron contributed a shirt printed with a pattern based on ancient language.
"Text is perceived as design, pattern, or decoration, comparable to the once potent symbols and signs, now tattooed on human bodies without number," said the duo, co-founders of architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron.
"The language that we encounter here is like an archaeological find, as fascinating to us as ancient scrolls or coins because we sense that its time is running out."


雅克•赫尔佐格（Jacques Herzog）和皮埃尔•德•梅隆（Pierre de Meuron）设计了一件印有古代语言和经典图案的衬衫/Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron designed a shirt, which is printed with a pattern based on ancient language and scriptures

像以往几届时装周一样，库哈斯的研究实验室  AMO  为时装秀设计了展示舞台，名叫“Prada的仓库”，由堆叠的盒子设计而成，看起来像一个工厂。

模特走在放置在空间中心的工业货架上，观众围绕舞台而坐。

AMO为米兰品牌创建的其他近期时装秀装饰设计包括色彩缤纷的床和长凳，以及布满镜子和粉色装饰物的空间。

As with most seasons, Koolhaas' research lab AMO created the set for the show. Named Prada Warehouse, the set was made up of stacked boxes designed to look like a factory.
Models walked around industrial shelves placed in the centre of the space, while the audience sat around the outside.
Other recent catwalk designs created for the Milanese label by AMO include a series of colourful interiors with beds and benches, and a space filled with mirrors and millennial pink detailing.


出处：本文译自www.dezeen.com/，转载请注明出处。