建筑师最具代表性的7种眼镜
The Stories Behind 7 of the Most Iconic Eyeglasses in Architecture

由专筑网李韧，韩平编译

眼镜是建筑师的经典配饰，它们就像是一座能穿戴的迷你建筑一样，是建筑师内在形象的外在表现。无论是方形、圆形、黑色线框，还是黑色、白色、咖啡色，亦或是如霓虹灯般七彩色调，这些眼镜都代表了建筑师内心的想法。甚至许多眼镜的背后都有一段有趣的故事，这里罗列了7个建筑界最具代表性的眼镜故事。

Eyeglasses: the quintessential accessory of the architect. They are mini pieces of architecture you can wear, and an outward expression of your inner persona. Whether they be square, round, or wire-frame, black, white, tortoiseshell, or bright neon tones, they represent our visionary ideals. As such, many of the most iconic spectacles have an interesting history behind them; so here are the stories behind seven of the most recognizable eyeglasses in the architecture world.


© Willy Rizzo

1、柯布西耶

勒•柯布西耶不仅仅是现代建筑的先驱，也是圆形眼镜的先驱。他的眼镜是在一家眼镜商店专门定制，而大名鼎鼎的设计师Yves Saint Laurent的眼镜也在此定做。简约的圆框眼镜表达了柯布功能主义的思想内涵，也代表了其作品中所表达的纯净形式。这些元素很快就成为柯布作品的代表特征，并在20世纪20年代，他和Edith Head等其他精英人物共同开始了新建筑的推广运动。

1. Le Corbusier
Not only was Le Corbusier one of the pioneers of modern architecture, but also of the round eyeglass movement. His famous owlish spectacles were custom-made at Bonnet, an elite Parisian eyeglass shop who also served designer Yves Saint Laurent. The simple, round shape reflects Corbusier’s functionalist ideals and the pure forms seen in his work both as a painter and architect. They quickly became his signature accessory, and beginning in the 1920s he, along with other notable figures such as Edith Head, began inspiring people everywhere to sport a similar, owlish look.


© Wikimedia User B. Pietro Filardo licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

2、菲利普•约翰逊

这款眼镜看上去是否似曾相识？这并不是巧合，约翰逊的眼镜与柯布的类似。经典的圆框眼镜与约翰逊所宣扬的现代主义风格相似，而厚重的框架则代表了其幽默的人格魅力。虽然约翰逊的建筑风格在上个世纪发生了巨大的变化，但他最喜欢的眼镜风格却几乎从未变过，直到去世他都戴着这款眼镜。

2. Philip Johnson
Experiencing any deja vu? It is no coincidence Johnson’s glasses are reminiscent of Le Corbusier’she got them specially made in 1934 by Cartier to resemble those of his idol. The classic round shape equally resembles the modernist ideals that Johnson held at the time, and the extra thick frames compliment his well-known humorous persona. And, while the style of Johnson's architecture changed dramatically over the years, the style of his favorite eyewear stayed essentially the same until his death over 70 years after he first chose it.


© RIBA via The Telegraph

3、贝聿铭

贝聿铭以其独特的几何形式而闻名于世，例如圆形、正方形，以及三角形。在年轻时，贝聿铭对于其法兰西艺术院的院士经历并不感兴趣，而是常常在现代主义大师的作品中产生灵感，并被其深深吸引。这种吸引力来自麻省理工学院图书馆的书架上，贝聿铭在那里发现了三本建筑大师柯布西耶的著作，此后，柯布西耶的作品便对贝聿铭产生了巨大的影响，甚至包括他的眼镜。

3. IM Pei
IM Pei is notable for his forms arising from different arrangements of simple shapes such as circles, squares, and triangles. As a young student and architect, Pei was uninterested in his Beaux Arts education, but rather found inspiration and appeal in the work of the modern masters. This fascination all began in the shelves of MIT’s library, where Pei encountered three books of—who else—Le Corbusier. Pei emulated his idols not only in his simple, modernist designs but also his eyeglass choice.


© Richard Phibbs

4、理查德•迈耶

迈耶的眼镜与同时代的其他建筑大师不同，他选择了一个细框眼镜。在其作品中，迈耶也表现出了与纯粹现代主义的不尽相同，他对传统的现代作品进行了提炼和简化，例如其钟爱的白色材料。迈耶的作品以纯粹几何、开放空间、光影效果为主要特征，而这些特征则与他的圆形细框眼镜相类似。

4. Richard Meier
Unlike the thick frames preferred by his contemporaries, Meier opts for a wire-frame. In his architecture, Meier is distinguished from his modernist peers by the refinement and simplification he brought to traditional modernist principles, such as working almost exclusively in white materials. His architecture is characterized by pure geometry, open space, and an emphasis on light—all three of which can be seen in his wire-frame, circular glasses.


© Wikipedia User Ishmael Orendain CC BY 2.0

5、丹尼尔•里伯斯金

里伯斯金的眼镜与柯布西耶略有不同。其建筑作品带有鲜明的尖角，例如他的代表作柏林犹太人纪念馆，这些元素已经成为他作品中反复出现的重要主题。里伯斯金拥有许多不同数量的眼镜，但最具标志性的仍然是全黑的镜框。

5. Daniel Libeskind
Libeskind’s iconic glasses are perhaps located on the opposite end of the eyeglass spectrum from Corbusier’s. Narrow and orthogonal with V-shaped arms, they reflect the striking angularity in his architecture, which was first seen in his Jewish Museum in Berlin and has become a recurring theme in most of his designs. Libeskind owns several pairs of the glasses in different colors, adding flair and style to his signature all-black look.



6、伊东丰雄

伊东丰雄的眼镜几十年来变化不断，但主要的变化仍然在于眼镜框架。经典的作品最能经受时间的考验，就如同伊东的建筑那样是永恒的赞歌。目前他选择的眼镜是捎带弧度的白色镜框，这就好像其作品墨西哥巴洛克博物馆和台中歌剧院一样纯净。

6. Toyo Ito
Ito’s choice of eyewear has varied throughout the decades yet has always been characterized by some variation of the rectangular frame. This classic eyewear shape has stood the test of time and, much like Ito’s architecture, is a timeless choice. His most current pair is white and slightly curved in shape, characteristics evocative of his Museo Internacional del Barroco and Taichung Metropolitan Opera House.


© Wikimedia user Michael Toporkoff licensed under CC BY 2.5

7、拉斐尔•维诺里

这位建筑师竟然戴了四副眼镜！维诺里在任何时间都戴着其钟爱的四副Lunor眼镜框架。这似乎有些太多了，但它们分别具有不同的功能用途，一副用于看远距离的物体，一副用于弹钢琴，另外的则用于阅读与绘图。这几幅眼镜成为了这个穿着黑色西装和高领毛衣、还有着满头白发建筑大师的最好配饰。

7. Rafael Viñoly
Not one, not two, not three, but four! Yes, Viñoly typically sports four pairs of his beloved Lunor frames at any given time. This may seem excessive, but they each serve a different purpose: one for distance, one for playing the piano, and the other two for reading and drafting. A handsome man with a full head of white hair, his signature set of glasses perfectly compliment his standard uniform: a black suit and black turtleneck.


出处：本文译自www.archdaily.com/，转载请注明出处。